Bofedales in Bolivia

After weeks of waiting and uncertainty, we set out on a trip with a group from the University in La Paz to collect data in the bofadeles (peat bogs) of the sierras, north of the city, in the Cordilleria Real. The glacier on Tuni Condoriri is retreating, which is of great concern, particularly as it provides much of the water to the capitol city. The University is conducting several studies on it, and this one is examining the unique bofedal ecosystems. We accompanied 6 students and the project lead, Teresa, as they took measurements of vegetation, tested water pH and chemistry in the pozas (ponds, which they also called 'ojas de agua': eyes of water), collected macroinvertebrates and soil samples, and recorded the influence of the stream on the surrounding landscape.

We arose before 6 am, and climbed into a jeep: 10 of us in total, with all of our bags, food, and science equipment piled up on top. The jeep snaked through the streets of La Paz, and then El Alto, until we were on the carretera (highway), surrounded by altiplano. The mountaints in the distance grew closer, and Heber (one of the students) started pointing them out: Huayna Potosi, Tuni Condoriri, Illampu. Eventually the jeep turned off onto a small dirt road, and we passed by small adobe brick huts, punctuating the open grasses of the vast landscape; we saw occassional campesinos in traditional dress: women with a baby on their backs wrapped in colorful blankets, men on bicycles traversing the long stretch of road.

Eventually we arrived at a building which would be our shelter for the duration of the stay. We were thankful as the weather was colder than we were prepared for, and the clouds were ominous. Before this, we'd been told we would be camping, and we don't have the right equipment or clothing to brave the weather at 4300 meters. The accomodations were basic: two small rooms, no heat, no water, no electricity; simple shelter.

After unloading and organizing, we headed out for the first site. It was not far, but as we approached, it began to snow. In true scientific passion, this did not stop anyone from heading out and collecting data. Patricia lent me some mittens, thankfully, and I protected Monika's camera from the precipitation as best I could. Jameson set up a seco/humedo thermometer reading, and we braved the weather as best we could. When it finally cleared up, we walked up the side of the mountain a ways, searching for plants, finding interesting species in rocks, and came to a beautiful lake. It was magnificent, and the climb got our heart rates up a bit.

Still, we never got warm, and returning to the cabaña, even with all of our clothing on, we were huddled, first in one room all together as we cooked on the portable gas stove. Then, the seven girls retreated to one room, arranging ourselves to take advantage of our collective body heat. The three guys remained in the kitchen, sleeping in three separate corners. Pobrecita Jameson didn't even have a sleeping pad the first night. It was wicked cold and the wind blew outside.

The next day was a relative heaven: the sun was out, the landscape as beautiful as any I knew, and after walking for about 15 minutes Teresa pointed out a few plants and let me loose to collect and photograph. She is working on a field guide and said that many of the plants included they do not have pictures of. It was lovely work, just me and the rocky alpine plants, miniature, but quite diverse, varied, hiding. Jameson found me for lunch, having helped the girls with miscellaneous things throughout the morning.

Throughout the entire time, very little English was spoken, and we communicated in Spanish. It was a rewarding, though at times difficult, experience. It was comfortable to be with a group of students who share our same interests but hail from a completely different culture. When they spoke with each other, we listened and tried to understand as much as possible; this differed depending on context and complication. The Spanish immersion in this manner helps us to improve by leaps and bounds, as the 'travel Spanish' that we do otherwise has actually become relatively simple, and we use too much English when it is only us together. In any case, the group was very accepting and welcoming, and we had a lot of laughs as we braved the sun and the snow and collected data. In many ways it was similar to our field experiences in classes and seasonal jobs in Oly.

The next day Jameson was sick... a very unpleasant experience. He did his best to do his work in the field but we ended up retreating early. A couple of girls did reiki for him back at the cabaña, and they allowed him to sleep next to me, huddled in our room, warmer due to the body heat. Despite this, I found myself with bone-chilling shudders waking me throughout the night, and odd recurring dreams.

On el dia final, we hiked further to an absolutely gorgeous mountain lake, situated at the base of the Condoriri glaciar formation. We were told how the glaciers at one time reached much further down towards the lake. It was warm and everyone soaked in the sun, and they invited us to a dinner back in La Paz. Field work commenced late, and our 2 p.m. arrival time back in the city was pushed back to about 7. Ahh, Bolivian time. I continued with the photography and plant collection, Jameson recorded temperature and took it easy in the sun. We enjoyed our last moments in this fragile, phenomenal, difficult-to-access ecosystem.

In our departure of the desert town of Arica, CH, we set out on an old beat up bus that would take us on a 12hr ride through the high, dry Andes into the verid hills of Bolivia. At first the landscape was desolate with hardly a hint of life in the vast, clear desert terrian. As the old bus creeped up the mountains, you began to see an occasional cactus the resembled a tree with an umbrella like top. Once nearing the top of the mountain, small streems began to flow and soft open beds of meadow opened up with llamas and alpacas feasting. When passing the isolated ponds, one could get a brief glimpse of flamingos in the distance. We soon reached the Bolivian border and antcipated a bit of struggle considering the copious amounts of preparation we had geting all of our documents in line. To our surprise it was a breeze, and within a few short moments we were in and on our way. The countryside turned into rolling hills with the occasional thatched-roof dwelling and fields of potatos and grains. The clouds were piling up and growing darker, letting us know that the rainy season had not fully passed.

We dozed off for a few only to awake to piling congestion of cars and people. We had reached El Alto, the neighboring city of La Paz just to the east. Traffic was at a stand-still, and it seemed to take ages just to go a few meters. Finally we began to move on and almost instantlly, the magnificent city of La Paz opened up beath us. Never have I witnessed such a city with so many contrasts resting within such a dramatic landscape. The city itself resembeles a shattered terracota pot against sharp, jagged Andean hills. When reaching the center, the air was thick with exhaust and people flooded the streets, selling whatever handful of random goods that made up their livlihood. Most of the center is essentailly one big open steeet market, with each block concentrated with like items ( Calle de Cocinar, Camino de Comer, and other randoms like light-bulbs or shoes). All the women dress in a very traditional manner with big, round skirts on the lower, and layered blouses and shaws above. Each wears a small, round top hat that never seems to fall. On their backs, they all carry whaterver precious goods they might have in a colorful cloth resembling a large blanket that is wrapped and tied around their shoulders and back.

The city itself does not offer alot as far as tourist attractions, but is perpetually entertaining with its street vendors. On the second day, all the bus drivers had gone on a two-day strike because they were upset over a new law prohibiting drinking and driving. Este es Bolivia. By the end of the week the buses were running again, and we were able to get to one of our main destinations, the UMSA Herbario and the Jardin Botanico. We talked to the director of the herbario and were able set up future dates for vegetation sampling using a novel method (GLORIA) that asses the impacts of climate change on alpine peaks. Delighted with the prospect, we wrapped up our time in La Paz and headed for the deep tropical jungle.