Chiloe

Chiloe is an island, and because of that, is has preserved culture and tradition unlike in other places in Chile. The natives kept out colonialism fairly effectively and continued to live fairly traditionally, and even after the permanent arrival of Europeans, have retained a unique traditionalism that includes wooden churches (some with corrugated tin roofs, collectively a UNESCO world heritage site) and other strange devices used to squeeze water from potatoes to make glutenly delicious milcau, and apple cider.

We arrived in Ancud, and were a bit put off by the over the top tourism. It was so thick that I couldn't see this unique culture I'd been reading about between the lines. Also, Jameson and I were plagued with illness, presumably, from consuming raw seafood in Puerto Montt. Won't do that again - still experiencing stomach cramps a week later. We tried to go see the Humboldt penguinos, which are one of the main attractions, but the boat rides were sold out and we didn't have a reservation. It was an exploitation of nature, anyways, we told ourselves, as we saw hordes of rental cars drive right up the road we'd walked on for an hour after a long, bumpy bus ride... ahh, the reflections of being a poor traveler. 

Castro had a bit of a more down to earth feel. Both towns were saturated with the most beautiful woolen goods in every form and fashion. Never more did I wish I could carry more with me (though after learning what it is to carry in our walk from Argentina, I knew I didn't want more) or that I had a greater capability to send things back home. The sweaters and ponchos were in gorgeous colors with unique and creative patterns, the women were busily knitting as we strolled through market after market. I could not help myself and bought several small bundles of yarn, many dyed with natural materials. I would return to Chiloe just for the wool.

The architecture in Chiloe is of wood and corrugated sheet metal, and the wooden shingles are of every pattern imaginable. They don't seem to believe in fresh coats of paint, for the most part, and the fading colors reveal past incarnations of the houses. The insides of the homes and businesses, though, appear kept up quite well. There is a wood stove inside each kitchen, complete with oven and water tank, warming the belly as well as the body. Castro boasted numerous palofitos, which are old wooden houses on stilts.

We attended a Festival Acosumbrado in Chonchi, and got to see these crazy wooden contraptions actually put to work: the pressing of potatoes, making of apple cider, shearing of sheep, preparation of grain, all with these machines attached to a belt and motor. It was insightful, as I'd read so much about the innovativeness of the native people of Chiloe but it was difficult to see how this was evident otherwise. 

Yesterday, we made the long journey to Valdivia, en route to eventually reach Santiago, deepening our ties with true 'civilization' after so long in such rural and traditional areas. Ciao, por ahora.